First Flight Jitters

Secondarily, the outline given here assumes a simple rocket of 12-16" length, 1" diameter and using an A8-3 motor for the first launch. Such a combination should only achieve 200' to 400' in altitude. As long as the wind isn't more than 10 mph, you should be okay on a baseball or soccer field. If in doubt, wait for a nicer day!

• Toss some grass straight up into the air and watch to see which way it drifts. Now that you know the wind direction, the launcher should be placed in the field so that it is 2/3 of the way toward the upwind direction.
• Before you set up the launcher, be aware that these rockets do ignite a gunpowder mixture. Flames can reach the ground so avoid locations with dry dead vegetation that could start a runaway grass fire. If the whole field is dry, put down something (a damp blanket) to catch sparks. It's also been suggested that having a hand-pump "super soaker" type watergun on hand during very dry conditions is a good idea too.
• Put the launcher together and put the safety key on the top of the launchrod. This prevents an accidental motor ignition as the controller is disabled without the key. It also may prevent a nasty eye injury from happening.
• If you are still worried about the breeze, you can angle the launchrod toward the wind, BUT NOT TOO MUCH. Never more than 30 degrees from straight up. The rocket will also turn into the wind on its own.
• Don't forget to put the blast deflector plate over the launchrod.
• Get your launch controller out and unravel its wiring across the ground at right-angles to any breeze. Go get your range box and carry it away from the launchpad to where the launch controller is sitting on the ground. This gets everything, especially the rocket motors, away from any sparks or flame of liftoff.
• Point out the controller wires to everyone present so they won't trip over them. Remind yourself not to do the same.

• If you aren't launching at a club meet, you get to wear the SCO's (Safety Check Officer) hat. Do a visual check to ensure that all is well on the rocket. Even these little hobby rockets hit speeds of 100 to 200+ mph! If anything (decal, fin, etc.) is loose, it'll get ripped right off.
• Your rocket probably has either a streamer or a parachute to bring it back down in one piece. That recovery equipment needs to be protected from the fireball of the ejection charge. This is the job of the ejection wadding. Follow the directions for how much to use, crumple it loosely and stuff it down into the bodytube. Several people have recommended using cellulose insulation from lumber or building-supply stores instead of the treated toilet-paper that Estes sells. For now, you may as well use the wadding that came with your starter kit, but I recommend using an extra sheet beyond what is recommended by the instructions. Wadding is cheap, and not using enough can ruin your rocket in less than 10 seconds.
• Fold your streamer or parachute according to instructions and slide it into the BT. It must not be crammed in too tight or it'll cause problems. Fanfold the remainder of your shockcord and place it in the top of the bodytube and put the nosecone on. It should not fall off if you turn the rocket upside down, but it should come off easily with a very slight pull.
• Get the motor you'll be using out of its packaging. Use the " first flight" motor specified by the manufacturer. One end is plugged but for a small hole, that's the business end that needs to face the rear of the rocket. The other end of the motor should appear completely plugged, but that plug may be down inside the motor tube. Insert the motor and secure it according to the instructions. Some rockets use a metal retainer, some rely on a fairly tight friction fit using tape. If the nosecone is supposed to pop off and release a streamer or chute, it's important that the motor not pop out the back instead. If that were to happen, your rocket would hurtle to the ground nose-first and attempt to drill for oil.
• Get the ignitor and handle it gently. Too much bending and pulling on its wires before it's installed can make it fail to light the motor. Holding the rocket upside down, put the ignitor into the hole in the motor. It should bottom-out but don't ram it in. Estes supplies a little plastic plug to put into the hole too that will hold the ignitor in place. (I don't know about Quest.)
• Your rocket is ready to be placed on the launchpad.

• Remove the launch controller safety key from the launchrod but keep it in your hand.
• Slide the rocket onto the launchrod through the lugs on the side of the bodytube. I like my rocket to sit so that the bottom of the motor is about 3" above the blast deflector. That prevents the tail of the rocket from being scorched by flames reflected from the blast plate. You can put use a small alligator clip or wrap duct tape around the launchrod to hit the bottom lug and stop the rocket at this height. Make sure your rocket can slide easily on the rod right to the top.
• Go to the controller, pick it up and insert the safety key. The "armed" light or buzzer should come on. If it didn't, there's something wrong with your launch controller. There's no point in trying to go any further until the problem is found and corrected. If you have an Estes Electron Beam controller such as those supplied with the Starter Kits, go here for troubleshooting tips.
• Now to be the RSO (Range Safety Officer). Survey the launch field, is everything okay for a launch? Any children or other critters too close for comfort? Scan the sky for low aircraft. Not much chance you'd hit one with a minimum motor configuration such as this, but it's good practice for later when you start launching stronger stuff! An Estes Comanche-3 can can exceed 500 mph and climb to over 2500'.
• Time to put on the LCO's (Launch Control Officer) hat. Count loudly from 5 to 1 and press the launch button! You have to hold the button down until the motor is lit, or a few seconds go by with no result.
• If all has gone well, take off all the different hats and watch that sucker fly!