Box 135
Salmon Arm, British Columbia
Phone - (250) 832-3539
Fax - (250)832-3502
E - Mail S.M.C.
Stories from the Mountaineering World
Mountain of Mystery
The last time
anyone saw George
Mallory and
Andrew Irvine was
75 years ago. They
were dressed in
wool sweaters,
tweed jackets and
were very close to
the top of Mt.
Everest. Did they reach the summit? The
Mallory and Irvine mystery has fascinated
historians and climbers for decades. And
now we could be a step closer to solving it
because George Mallory's body was recently
discovered on the storm-blown slopes of
Everest.
It wasn't until 1953 that New Zealander Sir
Edmund Hillary and his Sherpa guide
Tensing Norgay made world headlines by
reaching the very pinnacle and returning
with this historic photograph. But always
there's been a question: were they really the
first to the top? The discovery of Mallory's
body just may revise climbing history.
Brian Stewart talked with Hillary and David
Breashears, an author and filmmaker who's
climbed Everest. For more inforamtion see
CBC Newsworld
Schedule of Events
May 21 23, Lake Louise, Alberta: Chateau Lake Louise Heritage Weekend. This event kicks off the centennial at CP Hotels. Information: Chateau Lake Louise, 403-522-1803
June 2 3, Interlaken, Switzerland: The government of Switzerland and the Swiss Guides Association host a Canadian delegation to commemorate the home of the original Swiss guides.
June 12 13: Golden, BC: Swiss Mountain Guides, Golden Heritage Weekend. Many of the guides ended up living in Golden and the town is planning to commemorate that heritage.
Information: 1-800-622-4653.
July 1 - 2, Chateau Lake Louise, Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies, Glacier Park, Yoho
Park, Banff Park: A series of events to kick off the summer including an ascent of Mount Fairview.
Information: Chateau Lake Louise - 403-522-1803, Whyte Museum 403-762-2291, Glacier Park - 250-814-5232, Banff Park - 403-522-3833.
July 11, Emerald Lake Lodge: Bob Sandford speaks on the impact of guiding on Canadian Culture.
Information: 250-343-6321.
July 19, Glacier National Park: Centennial ascent of the Swiss Peaks. Information: Alpine Club of
Canada, 403-678-3200.
July 21, Lake Louise: Centennial Day at Lake Agnes Teahouse and Devil's Thumb Ascent.
Information: 403-522-2162.
July 11, Field, BC: Bob Sandford speaks on the impact of guiding on Canadian Culture.
Information: 250-343-6783
August 5 - 7, Kootenay National Park: Centennial ascent of Mount Fay. A three-day trip
sponsored by the Alpine Club of Canada, Parks Canada, and Moraine Lake Lodge. Information:
403-522-3833.
August 12 14: Centennial Ascent of Mount Dawson. A small, select party will ascend this historic
and impressive peak.
August 18, Emerald Lake Lodge: Bob Sandford speaks on the impact of guiding on Canadian
Culture. Information: 250-343-6321.
August 23, Field, BC: Bob Sandford speaks on the impact of guiding on Canadian Culture.
Information: 250-343-6783
September 18 19, Golden: Documentary Film Festival. Classic mountaineering and adventure
films. Information: 1-800-622-4653.
October 8 10, Lake Louise: Mountain Guides Weekend. Guest speakers, climbing and rescue
demonstrations, and an ascent of Mount St. Piran. Information: Chateau Lake Louise,
403-522-1803.
October 22, Golden: Celebration of Mountain Literature. Information: 1-800-622-4653.
November 3 7, Banff: Banff Mountain Book and Film Festivals. Special Swiss Guides
presentations and events. Information: 403-762-6125.
November 20, Chateau Lake Louise: Mountain Guides Ball. Information: Alpine Club of Canada,
403-678-3200 extension 112
For more information see:
Swiss Guides Festival Website
Message from the President
Welcome to the S.M.C.!
Hard to believe a year has come and gone since the last Best of the Fest here in Salmon Arm. If this year's Banff Mountain Film Festival attracts the same quality of entries as 1997's, we will have another terrific presentation come November. The festival committee has worked hard to put together the show, and with the addition of our photo contest, it should be a great mountain celebration.
The Shuswap Mountaineering Club (SMC) has managed several successful trips this year, the most notable being 18 SMC members clawing their way to the top of Mt. Begbie (near Revelstoke) one beautiful sunny weekend in July. Thanks to Doug Mongerson for masterminding and leading the expedition; the 11-person rope team was an interesting photo opportunity.
Other club successes included a three-day rock climbing course in the Salmon Arm area; and many more bolted and chained routes at the now famed Haines Creek cliffs (mercifully unscorched in the Great Fire of 1998). Our club gear stockpile continues to increase, and our membership has reached 47: who would have thought there were that many frustrated mountaineers in Salmon Arm?
Many people have worked hard to help the SMC reach this level. As more folks participate in club events and help organize club outings, I see nothing but growth in front of us. I invite anyone interested in the mountains, from dayhikes to technical expeditions, to contact the club and get involved: just call 832-3539 for more information. See you in the mountains!
Glenn Kissmann,
President - Shuswap Mountaineering Club
The Shuswap Mountaineering Club supports self propelled, all season
activities including general mountaineering, climbing, hiking and skiing.
Our objectives are: 1. To establish a registry and social network for club members.
2. To encourage the development of proper outdoor skills from qualified
educators.
3. To promote the use and development of local trails and climbing areas.
4. To cultivate sound environmental habits amongst our members.
5. To promote mountaineering through club sponsered events and social activities.
June 21, 1998 - Lookout Mountain. (5.3)
How to get there - Access via Illicilliwaet Campground and Great Glacier Trail. Go to end of trail sign and scramble up towards the toe of the Illicilliwaet Glacier. Take obvious snow slopes (scree in late season) and steep scrub to start of the climb. Technically easy (low class 5.0) with moderate exposure. Not all rocks are trustworthly.
The last 100 m to the summit was not attempted for this very reason. The guidebook states,Climb up broken slopes - (snow in early season) to the start of the north ridge. The crest of the ridge provides a moderately enjoyable climb on exposed and generally firm rock: the flanks of the ridge however are rotten. Several towers and steps are traversed on the way to the summit. This is a good climb for early season when the higher, more interesting peaks are not yet in condition. SMC members RJ, DN, DM and Ester from Germany. Round trip 11.5 hours.
July 28, 1998 - Cheops Mountain ( Class 3.0)
How to get there - Take Balu Pass Trail from the Rogers Pass Center. From the obvious headwall follow scree slopes up the west ridge of Cheops. Round trip time approximately 9.5 hours. Route description: From Balu Pass scramble up and along the lengthly west ridge to the summit. There is a little exposure at the end, but no difficulties. This is a route of choice, a pleasant scramble, not involving bushwacking to a fine viewpoint. SMC Members - DN, DM and DM
August 3, 1998 - Uto peak (Well almost)
How to get there - Take Sir Donald Trail from the Illicilliwaet Campground. From the Vaux Glacier walk along the moraine towards to Uto - Sir Donald Col. Descend of scree slopes and follow old moraines and talus heading for the overlook Col (thats as far as we made it). Definetly take a rope, rack and gear - climbing is described as easy but very exposed. Round trip to Overlook / Uto Col - 9.0 Hours. SMC Members DN, and DM.
Hermit / Tupper - August , 1998 (Almost)
How to get there - Take the Herrmit Trail just east of the Rogers pass Centre. Time to Hermit meadows with full packs 2.0 hours. Unforunately the weather moved in on us with a mixture of rain, fog and even a little bit of snow. Member Randy Lawrence got off route and ended up approxiamtely 500 to 700 vertical feet above the camping spot at Hermit meadows. Had to reatreat and maybe plan again for next year. SMC members RL, DN, DM and Kootenay Mounatineering Club member Max Banks.
CPR SWISS GUIDES CENTENNIAL
Goals and Objectives of the S.M.C.
Gear For Sale
Boreal Fires Rock Shoes. European Size 42 (Aprox. Sz.8). Asking $40.00. Phone Darrel 675-4900
5.10 Rock Shoes...size 9.5 US / 42.5 Euro...asking $ 50. Phone Warren 832-8119. E mail - warren@bellpole.ca
Boreal Ballet Rock Shoes...approx size 7.5 - 8 US...$ 50. Phone Warren 832-8119. E mail - warren@bellpole.ca Interested people can phone me at 832-8119.
Gear Wanted
Scarpa T2's size 8/9 shell and 8 1/2 or 9 liner. Keith at 832-7768.
Schedule of Events and Activities
Introductory Ice Climbing Course - Details to be announced shortly.Intermediate Avalanche Awareness at Rogers Pass. Details available at Whereabouts in Salmon Arm.
Telemark Clinic - Silver Star Mountain - For details phone Rob 832-3539
| Shuswap Mountaineering Club Box 135 Salmon Arm, British Columbia Phone - (250) 832-3539 Fax - (250)832-3502 |
E - Mail S.M.C. |