Home Theater Construction
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This picture was taken during early framing. You're looking at the back of the room. The entrance is in the corner.
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More framing. Now you're looking at the front of the room. You can see the door to what will be the equipment/media closet.
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This is a look at the framing from outside the room.
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Riser. The bottom was built with 2x4s and filled with R11 insulation. The top was built with 2x6s and filled with R13 insulation.
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A view of the riser from the entrance.
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A view of the front of the room. The doorway to the right leads to the media/equipment closet.
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The completed riser.
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A view of the completed riser from the entrance.
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This is the main soffit that covers an I-beam and the main HVAC supply/return trunks.
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This is a small soffit at the front of the room to cover some duct work.
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I wanted to move the heat diffuser nearer to the window for better air circulation. Here are the before pictures of the old location (left) and the new location (right).
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This is after I closed up the old hole (left) and installed a short duct closer to the outside of the room (right). The diffuser should sit flush against the ceiling once the drywall is attached to the soffit.
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I took the existing lights in the room off the switch that controls all the basement lighting and put them on this new switch.
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This is one of the recessed lights in the back.
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This is the other one.
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This is the recessed light in the front.
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The existing smoke detector was where I built the closet, so I had to move it outside. I won't be getting any style points for my conduit work, but it should pass inspection.
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Electrical work is done and ready for inspection [1/5].
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Electrical work is done and ready for inspection [2/5].
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Electrical work is done and ready for inspection [3/5].
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Electrical work is done and ready for inspection [4/5].
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Electrical work is done and ready for inspection [5/5].
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Woohoo!
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I decided to extend the steps just outside the door to the theater. I want the door to swing out to make more room for seating inside, and I thought it would be better if the door didn't swing out over the steps.
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I originally wanted to put the projector on a shelf at the back of the room, but I realized the projector image would barely clear the seating. I don't want my guests to have to constantly worry about blocking the projector when they so much as stretch, so I decided to mount the projector underneath the soffit. Here is the receptacle I installed to power the projector. On the left is a mud ring for a recessed low voltage plate for the video cables. I also attached some blocking, so I can mount the projector dead center in the room.
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I put down 3/4" OSB for a subfloor.
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I decided to add two light fixtures, one on each side of the room, for sconces. I'll install two Lutron Maestro IR dimmers for the recessed lights and the sconces, so I can dim down the recessed lights and dim up the sconces when watching a movie, and do the opposite at the end of a movie, or when the movie is paused, etc.
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This is the Roxul mineral wool insulation I used in the ceiling. I used 4" thick batts in the ceiling and 3" thick batts in the interior wall. This stuff really seems to do a great job, and I'm glad I bought it.
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Drywall installed (view of front of room).
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Drywall installed (view of back of room).
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Drywall installed (view of back of room).
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Cold air return duct outside of theater.
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Halfway through the second coat of mud (back of room).
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Halfway through the second coat of mud (front of room).
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Walls sanded, primed and painted with trim (front of room).
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Painted room with trim (back).
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Window jamb and trim.
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View of finished closet.
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Carpet installed and projector mounted.
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Carpet installed and final inspection complete.
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View of finished theater from the entrance
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View of finished theater from the back of the room
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View of finished theater from the front of the room
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Screen shot from ESPN World Series of Poker Coverage
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Screen shot from ESPN World Series of Poker Coverage (closer)