My car was purchased on August 23, 1997. I originally wanted a hatchback or a coupe, but settled on the 4 Door for several reasons: 1. The DX models don't have power steering, except for 4 Door DX. 2. The 4 Door LX was on Sale. 3. Most of all, it's easier for Grandma to get in and out of the car. So I settled on the 4 Door LX. Next was the color selection. It was between White or Silver, cause that was basically all there were left at the year end sale. I choose Silver on because it seems to blend more better with the "goldfish" headlights of the 6^th Generation Civic. Plus I had vision of a Black & Silver car.

At first, I want to keep it all stock, because it already looks fine. I experimented with wheel covers from older generation Civics, and even painted them to change the look. But it just wasn't right. Deep In my mind I see a Project Car waiting. Plus this maybe my last chance before graduating to something like a minivan. Therefore Project Car began on March 1998. All the Modifications follow the theme of "Form & Function." If it does not somehow improves the car, then it should not be there.

 The H & R Sport Springs was not my first choice. I wanted to go with Neuspeed Sofsport Springs at 0.75" drop, but they were out of stock. I'm glad that I did not because the H & R Sport Springs offer a more aggressive lower stance, and improved the performance over the stock Civic by10X. The car behaves completely different with confidence going into any corner at any speed, with almost no body lean. The progressive rate coils provided a ride that is close to stock setting, but over sharp bumps, it reminds you that you are riding on sport springs. I kept the stock shocks for now, and they do work with the lower springs. However the ride does bounce a bit over sharp bumps on the highway, because the rebound and compression rate has changed with the car riding on lower springs. Therefore warn your passengers going over bumps, or simply slow down.

I first trade my stock 14" steel wheels and 185/65/14 tires with my co-worker for DP alloy wheels on 195/50/15 tires (he was trying to sell his Honda). These low profile tires ride too stiff and changed the comfort level of the car. Also this wheel and tire mix was shorter that the stock wheel and tire combination. Through my calculations, I would have had Speedometer and Odometer errors by about 5mph or 60miles difference per 1000 miles. Since the tires were used, I opt for a set of 195/55/15 (the same size as Acura Integra GS-R). After searching high and low for affordable tires, I found these Nankangs. At about $50 per tire, you get a High Performance V-rated, unidirectional, with wide "aqua channels" tires. I will say these are the best tires for that size and price in balance between ride and performance.

The last modification was the Exhaust System. I looked at many Cat-Back System on the market from major brands such as DC Sport, Tanabe, and Greddy. Those system look sharp with their shinning stainless steel canister, and produce a deep throaty sound. But at $600 installed, it was way too much money. Also, the piping used are 2.36 inches wide. This would be best for Turbocharged engines, but on normally aspirated engines, it would reduce backpressure. Backpressure is needed for low-end performance (3,000 rpm) and to generate torque. Many racers also experienced the same dilemma, but because they gear their cars toward the high end (5,000 rpm or above), and noticed significant gains of about 5hp to 8hp.

The idea of a custom Cat-Back system from a muffler shop was considered. Even at $300, the cost outweighs the gains. So the decision was to go with just the muffler. Magnaflow was the choice because its applications suit smaller engines better. This Muffler is of the exact design as the expensive stuff with straight through design, and non-resonated chamber. The muffler was welded on the last pipe, so all the original mounting and bolt on points are there if I wanted to go with something else later, like a Mugen Twin-Loop Muffler. I have noticed better engine response, which is what I wanted, instead of high end power increase. It now produces a deep throaty sound like a vintage British roadster, and rather quiet on cruising speeds. The drone note of the exhaust can be a comfort factor for sensitive ears on long trips, like more than an hour. That's the price you pay with high-performance mufflers. But on WOT (wide-open throttle), it's all Rice!!!

The second was DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS (DRL). DRL is standard on all cars in Canada, and some in the U.S. I just thought they look cool, and any improvements in visibility would also increase safety. So it's all good. Honda does not have DRL units for U.S. models. I have called several Canadian Honda dealers, and they all said that it would not fit on an U.S. model. I am not really sure why. They recommend a GM unit, but the GM parts guy is not too confident about the success of this modification. There are many venders on the Internet that sell DRL ($30-$80). But unfortunately the wiring instructions are not "Honda Specific," and I would not want some mechanic to experiment with the installation on my car. But I'm still interested if a Honda part becomes available.

The Third was FOG LIGHTS. I was very specific about the exact location as to where the fog lights go. It would require part of the air intake below the front bumper to be cut out. And the light still would not sit deep in the air intake opening as I wanted. The wiring was also a challenge for me because I never done it before. This may be a job for the pros. And I have not found the exact size light that would fit best.

The Fourth was TINTED windows. This seems easy enough, considering the supplies only cost about $35.00 vs. $200 for a shop to do it. Applying the tint film seems rather straight forward, but the back window is where problems can happen. The "double concave curve" of the rear glass means a few things: 1. The tint may need to be split into two pieces (for an inexperience installer). 2. Using a heat gun to then form fit the tint to the rear glass. Keep in mind, if you mess up, there will be ugly glue marks on your window and tint film. So this is definitely a job for the pros. If you already modified your car, I'm sure it looks nice. So don't mess it up with an unprofessional tint job.

One of the biggest thing to consider in modifying your car would the thing between your ears. The increased confidence between the driver and car needs to be control in a safe manner. Pay attention of your suroundings and know the limits. Every owner need to be smart about this. The other factor is call The Mental Thing, and it will attack and eat you up without notice. Imagine the feeling of modifying something and it didn't go right, or the way you want to. How does that make you feel?

When things don't go right, and it will, you must remember to remain calm and step away from your car to evaluate the situation. After spending the time, money, and effort, you may feel a sense of helplessness, anger, and regret. Don't ever take it out on your car (or other people) because you will make it worst. Your car is a machine, what was done can be un-do. With that in mind, I offer these pointers before you start your Project Car to avoid The Mental Thing:

1. Know what You Want: Always have a basic idea or game plan from the start as to what look you want, and performance you want to achieve. Just because every other car on the street have Part A, doesn't mean you will need it too. Is your plan somewhere between Totally Slammed, and Semi-Stock? Work within reasons as to what is possible, and livable. Remember you are keeping this car for a long time, right?

2. Do your Homework: Research as much as you can about the modification. Find out how it works, how it fits, and does it go well your game plan. Talk to other car owners who have done it, read magazines, gather information on the internet (ie. Bulletin Boards), or simply e mail someone (like me). I found nearly everyone responded to my question sincerely.
3. Step Away: With all that information, make your decisions away from the performance shops, or car shows. The parts, tire, or sticker will still be there tomorrow. Never go on impulse, you might regret it later. Do more research, you may find something you like even more, and you can actually afford it.
4. Never trust a Salesperson completely: When getting advice from performance, or tire shops, think about what they say. They are in business to make money, and may not have your best interest in mind. To them, everything will fit in your car, and work, because they will make it work. Be your own boss, make your own decisions, and stick with your game plan.
5. Cost: Modifications cost money, and every little part you buy will add up. Some say "never add up how much you spent on your Project Car." But you should. You need to know, and keep it within reason. Sacrificing the needs of your daily life is not healthy, physically and mentality. If your plans are to spend $1,500 on engine improvements on a Civic DX to get 25 additional hp. You might as well gotten the more powerful Civic EX in the first place.

The after-market high performance auto industry is big business. And it's also a profitable one too with continuous stream of young enthusiast, and the traditional American love for the automobiles. That's why more and more shops are opening up for business. Many shops do carry quality products, and offer professional service. Mixed in with all of that are sub-standard parts that have never been tested, and maybe installed by someone who doesn't really understand cars. Manufactures such as Honda and its suppliers spend lots of money and many hours designing and testing each part. So don't just rip out any part of your car, there are reasons for way it looks and performs. Some aftermaket performance parts do affect reliability, usefulness, and safety of your vehicle. You might not notice it in the beginning, but it may sneak up 50,000 miles later. Think about it before you begin your Project Car!