Friday 7 July

At breakfast this morning our hostess asked if we had family connections in Ireland. I said 'yes- McCarthy' and found out her husband is also researching them. He came in with a book on 'Irish family names' which gave a good potted history of the McCarthy origins. It was published locally and he directed us to the shop at Skibereen. On arriving there we found it was out of print so went to the local library and explained that if it was in stock we'd like to photocopy the 10 page section. Unfortunately it was not in stock at that branch but the librarian was able to track down a copy in the Cork regional library and arranged to have it photocopied and mailed to us at home for 2 Irish pounds.

While we were waiting Russ noticed the sign for Internet access. We asked if we could use the service to check our email and she said it was members only but we were welcome to join the library! This we did... and were then able to check in at home, receiving lots of mail from family and friends tracking our progress before sending off our next bulletin.

By this time it was 11 AM so we made tracks to Durrus and out along the peninsula to Ballyroon. Along the way we stopped to photograph the heather which was just coming in to bloom and realised our camera was still at the library. We stopped at the next junction to ring and ascertain it's safety then returned, with much relief, to collect it. 50 miles round trip!

We are now are now heading toward Kerry. The coastal peninsulas from here on are said to be particularly beautiful including The Ring of Kerry and the Dingle Peninsular.

We are still managing to find a little pub somewhere each day for our bowl of soup at lunch time and another for dinner but are too bone tired to stay for the Irish music which doesn't get going 'till late evening. By the way...each evening Russ tries a new lager or stout...he's trying to work his way through the whole range. I just confound the poor barman each night by asking for my usual brandy lime and soda...they 'haven't a clue'!

We next tackled 'The Ring of Beara', the peninsula from Glengarrif to Cahermore. We had phoned ahead to arrange accommodation and dinner at Kilcatherine, Eyeries, on the north side. The scenery was spectacular, co-driving a nightmare. Russ wasn't at all worried!

Goat tracks carrying 2-way traffic! The mountains are incredibly rocky and red/blue in colour up close. (Basaltic I think) and purple from a distance; but not like the blue/purple of the mountains as we are used to. Increasingly the heather became thicker and brighter; also lots of small wild flowers; especially very low growing sedge like plants in pinks, mauves, white and yellow. The very common tiny red flowered fuschias we find at home in 'old' gardens, here, is like a weed. It is found in gardens, tall hedges, in bushscapes and on seashores.

Our B&B (Crowley's at Kilcatherine) is great. Our hostess Mary Crowley, with a family of young children and at least 2 other guests cooked us a roast pork diner, the best meal we've had since leaving home. The scene from our bedroom looking down to the bay and across to the mountains has to be seen to be believed. We hope the Kodak gold 200 ASA lives up to its reputation. We have tried to be economical with film but we are into our 4^th roll today and Russ went crazy with that when we arrived here this afternoon.

After dinner we walked down through the paddocks (locking gates behind us to keep the cows in), to the bay. I did a tiny postcard painting looking back up to the church/graveyard ruins near the house where an open air Mass was being conducted, while Russ hunted for crabs. It was 9PM and the sun getting low with a cool sea breeze so we didn't stay there long. 

One thing I've been forgetting to mention is 'Gypsies'. We have seen several bands. From 1 to 4 caravans set up camp in the most unlikely places, on even the narrowest of roads where one lane of traffic is more than enough. There they are, with kitchens, clotheslines, open fires and mounds of rubbish. One of our hostesses said some are quite wealthy and many build big mansions, which rarely get lived in.