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Beginners Guide
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What fish should I choose?


The three types of aquarium fish generally kept by aquarists are coldwater, tropical freshwater and tropical marine. Before you decide, think about what you want from your aquarium, learn about the fish available, and dont be afraid of asking your local aquatic dealer for any advice you need.
Coldwater fish.
These are probably the easiest fish to keep and will be happy at normal room temperatures. Because of this, the water does not require any form of additional heating. The most well known coldwater fish is the common goldfish but there is also a wide selection of fancy goldfish available for example the Blackmore,Veiltail, Lionhead, and Redcap.
Tropical freshwater fish
As the name suggests, tropical fish must be kept in water heated to between 25C - 28C (77F - 82F) as they come from tropical climates. A large variety of tropical fish are available which makes them an excellent choice for your first aquarium. Numerous species such as Guppies, Swordtails, and Angelfish for example can all live together in the same tank, these are known as community fish.
Tropical Marine Fish
Although rewarding, Marine fish can be expensive and are very sensitive to water conditions. We recommend that beginners start with either a coldwater or tropical freshwater aquarium. This would enable them to gain experience before progressing to marine fish.
Positioning the tank.
It is important to choose the correct location for your new aquarium. Some things to considder are:
Electricity supply,- Most of your equipment will be mains powered. You should locate your tank as near a mains supply as posible to avoid having any trailing wires.
Keep your tank away from direct sunlight - Direct sunlight will encourage the rapid growth of algae which will spoil the appearance of your aquarium.
The weight - A tank full of water is heavy. Water weighs 10lbs per gallon so even a small 12 gallon tank will weigh in at a hefty 120lbs. If you are not using a stand specifically made for aquariums, make sure the surface you use is strong enough.
The Surface, The surface that your tank will stand on must be flat and level. Expanded polystyrene (e.g. ceiling tiles) is often placed beneath the tank to even out any irregularities in the surface. Some Aquarium manufacturers however do not recommend this and will place a label on the tank to inform you if this is the case.

What aquarium should I buy?


We recommend that you buy a good quality glass aquarium and hood. The aquarium should have a tight fitting condensation tray or cover glass to stop evaporation and prevent condensation reaching the light unit. Acrylic aquariums are also available but some of these can be easily scratched.

What equipment will I need?


The basic equipment you need consists of a filter, an airpump and if you want to keep tropical or marine fish, a heater/thermostat.
A filter to clean the water
Waste solids - such as excreta and uneaten food must be filtered from the water or they will break down and pollute the aquarium.
There are four basic kinds of filtration:
1. INTERNAL FILTRATION
As the name suggests these filters are placed inside the aquarium. Water is drawn in through the bottom of the filter and through the filter media (usually sponge) by an electric pump. It is then pumped back into the water via the filter outlet. Internal filters are suitable for all sizes of tanks.
2. UNDERGRAVEL FILTRATION
A special undergravel filtration plate is placed on the bottom of the tank with an upright pipe fixed to one corner.
The filtration plate is then covered with about 3 inches of gravel. A submersible electric pump, known as a powerhead, pumps the water up the tube - drawing it through the gravel. The gravel filters the water as it passes through. This system can also be operated by pumping air from an airpump into the uplift tube.
3. REVERSE FLOW FILTRATION
Reverse flow filtration is where both internal filtration and undergravel filtration are used together. The outlet from an internal filter is connected to the uplift tube on an undergravel filtration system. The water is filtered by the internal filter before being pumped down the uplift tube and filtered again by the gravel.
4. EXTERNAL FILTRATION
External filters stand outside the tank. The water is drawn from the aquarium and filtered through one or more filtration media before being pumped back into the aquarium. Some external filters also incorporate a heater/thermostat.
An airpump to put additional oxygen into the water. Fish need to breath - the water therefore needs to be oxygen rich. In rivers and lakes this happens naturally. In your aquarium you can help improve the ongoing supply of oxygen. Where air is pumped into the tank the rising bubbles create movement which circulates the oxygen rich water at the surface around to the rest of the tank.This is much more effective and attractive if an airstone is used.
A heater thermostat to warm the water
Tropical and marine fish need to be kept in water at about 25C - 28C. The size of your tank will determine the size of the heater you will need in terms of wattage. As a rough guide you should allow approximately 10 watts per gallon. Your aquatic retailer should be able to advise you if in any doubt.
You will also need a thermometer to check water temperature.
Water preparation.
After thoroughly washing your gravel and rocks put them into your aquarium before adding the water.
Chlorine removal
Whilst ordinary tapwater can be used it must first be treated before fish can be added. The first step in this process is to neutralise the chlorine in the water by adding a tap water de-chlorinator. Maturing the water.
Just as we need many types of bacteria to help us stay healthy, fish also need an environment which contains the right amounts of certain bacteria - which help to breakdown waste. This increase in useful bacteria is called maturing. This maturing process can be speeded up by leaving the heater and airpump running and adding two or three crumpled flakes of fish food each day to feed the bacteria that help the maturing process. Once this has been done, it should be safe to introduce a few fish after 14 days.
Partial water changes.
Every 2-3 weeks we recommend that you carry out a partial water change. You can do this by siphoning 10-25% of the water out of the tank (you dont need to remove the fish) and replacing it with new water.
The new water should be tapwater, but treated with a de-chlorinator prior to adding it to the tank.
To avoid distressing the fish, you should warm the new water to match the existing temperature of the tank then pour it in carefully
Testing the Water.
There are two main potential problems which can occur in aquarium water - a build up of nitrite and imbalance in the level of acidity. If left unattended both can stress the fish and therefore lower their resistance to disease. Both are easily monitored with water test kits and, if required, can be treated with proprietary water treatments. Your aquatic retailer will advise.
Choosing the Fish.
There are so many beautiful fish to choose from. Visit a good aquatic stockist and dont be afraid of admitting that you are a beginner seeking advice. We recommend that beginners buy from a reputable shop or breeder. It is better to pay a little bit more for fish that have been quarantined and are free from disease.
Fish need living space so do not overstock your tank. As a general rule allow 24 square inches of surface water area for each 1 inch of coldwater fish and 10 square inches for each inch of tropical fish (head to tail, but not including tail fin).
It is also better to add the fish gradually starting off with only 2 or 3 fish of one species, building up over the months as your tank matures.
Feeding your Fish
To keep your fish healthy and active they need a range of nutrients and vitamins. The easiest way to provide these is in a complete balanced diet. All flake foods are specifcally formulated to provide the nutrition that aquarium fish require. No matter how good a dried food may be, your fish will appreciate a change from time to time. There are also many good frozen foods available to use but make sure you use ones that have been irradiated. To give your fish a real treat you can also offer them live food. Some suitable live foods include Daphnia, Blood worms and Brine shrimp.
How often? How much?
Ideally you should feed your fish twice a day. Add some food to the water. If it is eaten within a few minutes add a little more. If the fish stop feeding, or after about 15 minutes, remove any uneaten food with a small net. You will soon get a feel for how much food to offer.
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