Note: all prices are estimates only and are in US dollars. I live in Michigan (zone 4) in the US so all my experience is based on winters which freeze everything solid.
Pond care
Building a pond assumes some things: you are using chlorine-free water and have allowed the pond to "settle" after filling it with tap water. This allows beneficial bacteria to grow, stabilize the pH, allow chlorine to evaporate (but not chloramines) and allowed the temperature to stabilize. You can use fish-tank water purifier to remove chlorine and chloramines from the water. Aquarium supply stores also have bottles of "good" bacteria with which to stock your pond. You should also manually change the water in smaller ponds, like half-barrel ponds. Change 20% of the water each week, then top off with treated water (treated with aquarium purifier).
Next, be aware that ponds, especially smaller ones and half-barrel ponds, can have bigger swings in temperatures. They can get very hot in the summer sun. So put up your half-barrels on 2 2x4s so air will circulate under them and the ground will not transfer as much heat to the container.
Pond Size
Ponds can come in many sizes, from a half-barrel size to thousands of gallons. Choose the size that fits your style and your space available.
Installing a pond
Whether you install a pond by digging out a hole in the ground and putting in a flexible liner, or by putting in a rigid liner, you have to consider the same things. Consider putting small gravel (1/4" to 1/2") in the bottom to harbor bacteria to break down sludge and decaying matter. Here's why. In a pond, things are born, grow, and die and fall to the bottom. Dead things are eaten by scavengers (if you have them) like shrimp and crabs, and some fish. Then bacteria break down the smallest pieces. The bacteria need a sheltered place, between the gravel, in order to do their work. NOTE: no pond animal eats feces except bacteria.
Also in a pond, plants use sunlight to make oxygen, which is used by animals in the water. Some plants are better for making oxygen, do some research to find out which ones you want for your pond.
Alternative containers
- Storage container (plastic Rubbermaid). These are generally flimsy and so must be mostly surrounded by soil to support up their flexible sides. Get one that is at least 24" deep and has a lot of surface area on the top. Easy to determine size as they are rated in gallons.
- 1/2 whiskey barrel. This is nice because you can put it on your porch or deck, or in your backyard. Barrels could run about $13-14, but a liner is required, and runs about $30. You can plug holes with a cork, piece of wood, toothpick, or just some silicone caulk. Be sure to caulk all holes to make them water tight. Be careful you use aquarium safe caulk. Other caulk could kill your fish or plants in the barrel.
- Cement fountain. Heck, we got a cement fountain about 4' in diameter. The second year we had tadpoles in it. It was on the north side of the house (the front, higher traffic than other areas of the yard no less), and was mostly shaded during the day. I guess the frogs liked it. Warning: cement seriously affects pH. Test pH weekly until it stabilizes. Do not place fish or plants in this pond until the pH stabilizes. When you see the water turn green, then it is growing algae or bacteria and might be stabilized. Test to make sure.
- Large plastic planters. Plug any holes and rinse well. New plastic containers have a mold release agent sprayed on them which is toxic.
- Kiddie pool, hard plastic. Some people claim these leach chemicals into the water since they were not designed to house animals. Use at your own risk, especially if you have fish or invertebrates.
Pond location
Putting a pond in a sunny or shady location each has different effects. A shady location will reduce algae growth but overhanging branches will drop more junk in the pond. It will also keep the pond cool in the hottest summer months. Fish need cooler water. Most fish need water that is 65-75F. Don't let the water get over 75F.
A sunny location will aid in plant growth but also help algae to grow, and keep the pond warm on cool days. It will also overheat the pond on really sunny days, especially if the liner is black.
What about the neighborhood kids? Do you want a pond in a location where the neighborhood kids can see it, and investigate it? I'm not saying kids are bad, but they are curious and they will want to see your pond and if there are any animals in it. They also have a habit of throwing things in your pond to see if it will float, or if a fish will eat it. If you don't want your pond with a lot of garbage in it, do not put it in your front yard if you are in a suburb.
Oxygenators
Plants which produce oxygen during the day are useful for supplying oxygen to animals, like fish, living in your pond.
Algae eaters and suppliers
- Shrimp: cleans up the bottom of the pond, including eating algae (some species), dead fish, dead insects that fall in and sink to the bottom, and dead plant material. Shrimp generally need water above 60F or they die. See your pet store for ghost shrimp, normally about 4/$1.00.
- Plecostomus/algae eater (other fish are also called algae eaters; plecos will not survive temperatures below 50F.) These are the typical black fish that stick themselves to the aquarium side with their large sucker-like mouths. Some species get 2 feet long. Plecos are generally hard to keep alive in an aquarium, much less a pond. Avoid plecos if you are a beginner ponder.
- Tadpoles: will turn into frogs and toads then leave. Small black tadpoles are for toads, other colors are for frogs.
- Snails: gets algae on surfaces. Trapdoor and ramshorn snails can be found at your pet store. About $2-4 each depending on size.
- Rosy barbs (fish): often sold as feeders in pet stores. About 10/$1.00.
- Chinese algae eaters: despite their name these are not very good algae eaters. Spend your money on a otos instead.
- Otocinclus: will not survive cold temps but will eat surface algae. Put them in the pond in the summer, take them out in the early fall when water temp falls to 65F. These prefer to be in schools. So if you get a bunch, you might have babies. They rest during the day and are more active at night.
- Daphnia: Adults will survive as long as there is liquid water somewhere in the pond. Adults will also make "ephippia", or resting eggs, when it gets cold or when water conditions get poor, which will hatch in the spring.
- Clams: eats free-floating algae and organic "smutch" or "mulm".
CAUTION: many snails, clams, and shrimp will not survive a freeze or temperatures below 60F. Read the description for each species carefully if you live in a freezing climate, or be prepared to buy new clams, shrimp every year. See your pet stores for ghost shrimp, which are typically 4/$1.00.
Snails
Snails help consume surface algae in a pond. Be careful, some snails, like certain species of apple snails, will eat your pond plants. Tadpole snails will multiply rapidly and produce too much ammonia in the water, thus killing your other animals.
Tadpoles
Tadpoles grow up into frogs or toads. Bullfrogs spend 2 years as tadpoles. Bullfrogs can eat other small frogs or fish and have voracious appetites. Use bullfrogs with caution. The head part alone on bullfrog tadpoles can be 1-2" long.
Tadpole Links
- http://www.growafrog.com/orderweb.html - buy complete kit with tadpoles, small tank, food, etc.
- **http://williamtricker.safeshopper.com/62/cat62.htm?872 - tadpoles, salamanders, snails, clams, daphnia, duckweed. Good prices.
- http://www.koiman.com/koiman/opondp.htm - sells snails and clams, glass shrimp, tadpoles.
- http://web.uvic.ca/enweb/courses/318/Assignment3/KellyWake.htm - a page about bullfrogs.
Daphnia
Daphnia are small creatures about .5-1mm long, also called "water fleas" because of their jerking motion. They are almost invisible to the naked eye but a magnifying glass will help to see them, as well as a low power microscope. They are usually light pink, pink to light tan. They are not white like cyclops.
- Where to look for in the wild:
In still water. Next to objects, like logs, sticks, grass, weeds, all underwater. Daphnia congregate in the light. Look for them on shaded ponds where the light comes through the trees.
- Culturing
Get a 1 or 2 liter clear glass bottle. Wash thoroughly. Fill with (fish safe) water, put in location which gets lots of sun, but keep it warm, 72-76F. Let algae grow in it. Free-floating algae will color the water green all over. A scum just on top of the water could be bacteria or a fungus. You might want to start over if you get this or soak up the scum with a paper towel. Bubbler IS necessary for oxygen. Collect from a pond or order daphnia. Feed them 1tsp yeast dissolved in water when the water looks fairly clear. Keep in sunny location. Sun is not required for daphnia, but is required for their food, the algae.
At some point, start another bottle with water, let it get green. Transfer 1/4 of the old water to the new container to start a new batch.
Daphnia will form ephippia, or resting eggs, if it gets too cold or water conditions become less than optimal. These eggs can survive drying out or freezing and will hatch the next spring. So once you put daphnia in your pond, you should have them forever, if you don't have fish (fish love to eat daphnia).
Daphnia Info Links
Shrimp
Shrimp can also eat detritus from the bottom of the pond and clean it up. They also eat algae (some species), and dead animal or plant matter.
Shrimp Info Links
Shrimp Sale Links
Fish
Fish can also be put in your pond (imagine that!). I recommend no more than 1"* of fish per 24 square inches of surface area. This will make sure the oxygen content of the water does not go too low. This recommendation is based on the pond NOT having a bubbler or waterfall or other water aeration. With aeration, you can have 2" of fish length per 24 square inches of water surface.
So, with a container that is 12" x 12" (144 sq inches), you can have (144/24=6) a six 1" feeders with no aeration. Or, you can have 1.6" of fish in a round pot that is 12" in diameter (12*3.14/24 = 1.6).
* Note: this is my guess, not based on scientific evidence.
Here is one quote from Jeff Cook's half-barrel pond page:
It is rumored that a pond will support one inch of fish for every 5 gallons of water without requiring oxygenation or filtration. If you see your fish "gasping" at the top of the water (low oxygenation), or you intend to put a lot of fish in a small space, then your pond will require mechanical filtration and aeration.
Do not put fish into a pond for the first 2-4 weeks until the pond has "aged" or "settled" and beneficial bacteria have had time to establish themselves.
Frogs
What kind of frog is in your pond? Are those frog or toad eggs? Frog eggs are laid in clumps, toad eggs are laid in long strings. Common american frogs are: leopard frog, wood frog, spring peeper, mink frog, bullfrog (large, 6" long or larger), green tree frog, pickeral frog, green frog.
Bullfrog
LARGE, 6" or longer. Tadpoles are large also, 1" without tail or larger.
Chorus frog
Gray to light beige on top with darker long blotches and spots. Slightly bumpy skin. Black line running from snout, through eye, along side to back.
Green frog
Medium to dark green, almost no markings. Lighter on belly.
Green/gray tree frog
About 1" long. Slightly bumpy skin, with *bilateral* dark squiggly lines. Greenish color looks like lichen, with lighter or cream color on belly. Also comes in gray variation. Cope's gray treefrog has bright yellow-orange coloring on inner surface of hind legs.
Leopard frog
3-4" long. Light green with irregular round blobs on back and legs. Spots are smaller than pickeral frog and have light borders.
Mink frog
3-5" long. Appears to be dark brown on top with green squiggly lines. This is how you tell it is a mink frog, there is more dark brown/black on top than green. The skin produces a musky, mink-like scent when handled by people.
Pickeral frog
Spots are larger than leopard frog and more regular shaped and placed. Bright yellow inside thighs.
Spring peeper
About 1" long, light brown, with slightly darker brown spots or lines. Usually has an X shaped mark on its back.
Wood Frog
1-1.5" long, light brown on top with dark brown stripe going from snout, through eye, stopping at back of head. White on belly. I think there are variations where the brown stripe goes under the eye also.
Toads
Toads have dry, warty skin with varying size of bumps. They also have one large wart behind each eye. They are tan to brown with lighter bellies. They are often found burrowed into sand or dirt, with just their head showing. Toads do not cause warts but they can be irritating to eyes if you handle them and touch your eyes. They often pee on you if picked up, because they are frightened. Size: 3-6" depending on age, sometimes 7".