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November's destination - Scotland, New York, Florida

I am lucky enough to get to travel with my job.  I don't see very many places, but a few I see often.  My current job takes me to Greenock, Scotland and Tokyo, Japan - once a year.  I also frequent upstate New York and Austin, Texas.

This page includes a guide to traveling in Tokyo.  I hope to include other notes at a later time.  If you have hints and tip for travel, especially for the business woman, please send them to me to include. 

TRAVELING in JAPAN
A Business Woman's Guide - Tokyo and Kyoto

I have been lucky to travel to Tokyo 5 times; my first trip was July, 1995, and my last was February 1998.  I did not enjoy it the first time.  I started to enjoy it the second time and now that I may not go back - I am really going to miss it.  If you get the chance to go - I highly recommend it.  It is a very expense place to visit, so business travel may be the only way that you see it and it is not to be missed.  You will enjoy it if you like food, shopping and/or exciting cities.  All you need to enjoy it is a little preparation.  Oh and I don't speak a word (well, maybe 5 words) of Japanese.

<-- Bride being prepared for portrait.

z PREPARATION
If you are not already familiar with your company's travel policy - read it.  Check for items like - what phone calls are covered, what laundry is covered, money changing fees;  as well as hotel and food limits.

The law requires that your passport is valid for 6 months or more.  If your passport expires in less than 6 months from your date of your return, you need to renew.  Allow several weeks for this or plan to pay for expedite service ($100 - $200).

>Weather in Asia<.  You can always plan on rain - and sometimes snow.  It does get cold in the winter!

After years of travel, I have learned to study before I leave.  It is very important to understand business and social customs for you to be successful.  You must know for instance:  how to exchange business cards, how women are perceived, and proper dinner courtesies.  Even if you are not planning to do any personal travel, you will enjoy your stay so much more if you know something about the city/country you are visiting.  If you have never been to Japan, get a book on Japan or better - on your destination city - you will really enjoy it more.  And check the internet for information, including up-to-date restaurant guides and other timely information. Books I have used and highly recommend:
Tokyo, a Lonely Planet City Guide, Chris Taylor - I carried it everywhere - it is the best! 
Japan, a Lonely Planet travel survival kit, Chris Taylor, et.al.,  - comprehensive.
>Amazon.com<

Special Note:  If you have business cards, bring plenty of them.  If you do not, have some printed!

While I do not speak Japanese,
I can say that it would be of great benefit to know even a little.  You should know how to say simple phrases, and yes (the most common word in Japanese conversation).
Good Morning:  ohaiyo gozaimasu
Goodbye:       sayonara
Excuse me:     sumimasen
Thank You:     arigato gozaimasu
Please:        dozo
Yes:          hai
z WHEN TO GO:
Cherry Blossom season - no doubt!  If you have a choice - go to Japan in late March, early April.
There are many Japanese Holidays - check with your host to be sure they do not conflict with your trip.  Tokyo and Kyoto are popular Japanese Tourist locations - so plan many weeks ahead, as you do not know when you might be arriving on a busy Japanese travel time.
Some of the 1998 Holidays:
Jan 01 New year's day
Jan 15 Coming-of-Age Day
Feb 11 National Foundation Day
Mar 21 Vernal Equinox Day
Apr 29 Arbor Day*
May 03 Constitution Day
[May 04 Monday - Sub-holiday for May 03, Sunday]
May 05 Children's Day
Jul 20 Sea Day*
Sep 15 Respect-for-the-Aged Day
Sep 23 Autumnal Equinox Day
Oct 10 Health-Sports Day
Nov 03 Culture Day
Nov 23 Labor Thanksgiving Day
Dec 23 the Emperor's Birthday
Note 1. 04/25 through 05/05 is called Golden Week.  Make reservation far in advance.
Note 2. 08/08 through 08/16 is typical summer vacation season in Japan.  Make reservation far in advance.
PLUS.. 16 company “recommended days off”, including 1.5 weeks in August, plus 3 company holidays.
*: Not in Japanese English dictionary, informal translation
z CURRENCY:
>Exchange Rates<
Have some yen with you for your arrival.  I had trouble getting cash with my American Express Card the last two trips.  The trip before that I had no problem.  So, I would recommend that you get travelers cheques.  You can use my comments (if you haven't been there before) to estimate the amount.  On my 3rd trip, the hotel would accept American Express Card for cash.  But on the 4th trip, the same hotel would only take VISA Gold for cash.  Call ahead if you have questions on hotel policy.  I did find ATMs (Automated Teller Machines) that worked with my card - but the instructions were almost always all in Japanese.  And the one that did work, closed at 5:00 p.m.  I would not recommend counting on an ATM for cash.  You will need about Y6000 (6000 yen) to leave the country, see below.
z GETTING TO TOKYO from Narita Airport:
Follow the Ground Transportation Signs to "Limousine Bus" or "Airport Limousine".  It is in a line of transportation counters near the front of the terminal.  The fee is about Y3,000 to middle of Tokyo.  Have the yen to pay for this with you. Be sure to bring the address of your hotel with you.  The bus will take you to the door of the hotel.  It is about a 2 hour trip in good traffic and by all accounts the fasted way to get to the hotel.  If you arrive later in the day  you hit rush hour and it may take longer.  I have also done this by train and taxi.  I think the bus is easier.

z HOTELS
I've been lucky to be traveling on the company's money and had the opportunity to stay in two of the nicest hotels in Tokyo.  My first stay was at the Hotel OkuraHotel Okura is in the international embassy district.  It is one of the most expensive hotels in Tokyo and you get your money's worth.  The rooms and large and elegantly appointed.  It reminded me of a James Bond 007 movie - ‘early ‘60’s elegance.  Rooms in 1995 started at about Y28,000.

The other trips I was at the New Otani Hotel in Tokyo.  It is a wonderful hotel.  Rooms start at about Y25,000.  There are perhaps 20 restaurants, shopping and easy access to the rest of the city.  Apply for the New Otani Club - fax the New Otani right away and ask for information about this.  Breakfast buffet is about Y2,400 without the Club card; for members it's included in the room rate, along with discounts at many of the hotel restaurants.  Fax: (03) 3221-2619.

If it is not convienent or you can't stay at the New Otani, be sure and study the guides and book you can find and ask others for recommendations.  Your hosts in Japan will likely be most helpful in making a recommendadtion, as well.  Do not stay at a purely Japanese style hotel unless you know fully what you are getting into.

z EVERYDAY THINGS
Wear very comfortable shoes.  You will be walking more than the usual workday.  Taking a taxi is a last resort in my book.  I have had very bad luck with Tokyo taxi's.  The taxies are clean and very much like any big city taxis.  But, it is such a large city, no one taxi driver knows the whole city.  If you don't know how to get to where you are going, don't count on the taxi driver knowing.  The drivers also almost all smoke.  So the taxies are full of cigarette smoke and smell.

If you are not used to subways, keep in mind that you are not only walking more, but you are also carrying more.  You won't have the back seat of a car to throw everything into.  You are self-contained.  Bring amble bags, briefcases and/or backpacks.  Don't carry more than you have to.  Always carry, at a minimum:  your passport, the address of your hotel, the subway map and some cash.  Tokyo is very safe - you won't be robbed, but you might lose something - so fewer bags to keep track of is better.

Laundry is very very expensive at the Hotel.  It's cheaper to buy (in the states) new underwear.  So pack smart, but pack plenty of clothes.  Check your company's policy on paying for laundry before you leave.

Most places you visit will have western toilets.  But you may find, especially in smaller towns or public facilities (train stations, parks), only Japanese style accommodations (see picture).  I found the stalls were conveniently narrow, which allowed me to “brace” myself in whatever position I felt I needed to get into.  It is a challenge for us westerners, no doubt.

It  is common to have no towels in the rest rooms (disposable or otherwise).  If you are so inclined, you might want to bring a handkerchief to dry your hands.  You will also find a handkerchief handy in the hot tropical weather.  Japanese carry lovely little terry cloth towels.  You can buy them in variety or department stores.  They also have available many many handkerchief - worth stocking up for taking back home.  I found once I started carrying one, I liked it.

Personal Space   This is a foreign concept in public Tokyo.  We're talkin’ 15 people in an elevator that in USA you would put 7 people.  There is truly a knack to walking on the street as well.  I finally did learn to do it without feeling like I was walking an obstacle course, but I can't say how I did it.  There are simply a lot of people in a very small space.  

Most restaurants do not have a non-smoking section.  You will find cigarette smoking most everywhere, including indoor shopping malls.  For non-smokers this can be very uncomfortable.

z FOOD
General:  Almost all restaurant have either pictures or plastic models of the food.  So ordering is never a problem.  You can always eat cheaper if you “go native”.  Although there are very expensive Japanese meals, Tempura for instance.  There are lots of Italian restaurants in Tokyo in all price ranges.  French food is expensive, as always.  There are McDonald's (about the same price as in USA), Kentucky Fried Chicken and Burger King - if you are just dying for junk food.

For Dinner, there is every kind of restaurant in Tokyo.  Dinner in and around Tokyo costs about Y3,000 - Y7,000 for native or casual dining.  Dinner can cost MUCH more.  A steak dinner (American style) is about Y18,000.  A fancy Japanese meal (tempura/sashimi) can run Y15,000 and higher.  A French meal (i.e., Maxim's) will run Y20,000 or more. Lunch at our work cafeteria was about Y500.  They do have snack foods also (western style - cookies, candies, soda) at most locations.  Breakfast at our hotel was ample and international.  It was included in our room rate - good thing, as it was Y2700.  Remember, its easier in a big group to divide up the bill when we all have cash.
Restaurants:
Best Italian at reasonable prices:  Baby Face. In Ginza - take the Ginza Line to Ginza station.  Exit B3 onto Ginza West 5th.  About 1 block away from the main street on the right, look for a sign, its on the 4th floor (“4F”).
Others to try - try a “garlic restaurant” - they usually serve cuisine from all countries (mostly Asian) with the focus on garlic.  Some “garlic restaurants” are actually Korean restaurants.  Still very good, just all Korean dishes.
For the most restaurants per square meter - go to Rappongi.  Rappongi also has the most anglos, sailors and hustlers per square meter - but I wouldn't miss it.
Whether you are staying at the New Otani or another hotel, I recommend these restaurants at he New Otani Tokyo:
The Blue Sky (Chinese Buffet).  It is a rotating restaurant and has a lovely view of that end of the city.  The buffet in the Tower Grill is also lovely and mostly Western food (if you get tired of fish).
For a Business breakfast or lunch try the Garden Lounge (with the view of the famous garden).  It is also wonderful for late evening dessert (primo!) and live jazz (or other live instrumental).  For Tempura:  Horikawa - on the lobby floor and the arcade floor of the New Otani.  Good tempera at reasonable prices (
 

z SUBWAYS: 
I learned to love subways in Tokyo.  I've never lived in a city with subways, but I think it is a great way to get around a city.  If you have been on subways in New York, London or Munich - you will have no trouble with Tokyo's system.  I recommend you buy a subway pass (pictured here are 2 of my passes).  It will get you on and off the subways with ease.  You buy them at coin-op machines in most large stations.  You can buy them in Y1000, Y3000, or Y10,000 denominations.  A one-way trip in the city is from Y120 to Y280 and is automatically deducted from your card at the gate.  Single tickets are also bought from coin-op machines.  The passes are only good around the city.  If your destination is outside the city (many trains go outside the city; through one or two different “lines” without changing trains) you can use your pass to buy a ticket (at designated machines), but don't use it to get on the subway or there will be an embarrassing exchange at the other end.

Many of the stations in Tokyo have English character signs.  It is easy to get to know the system.  Red means express, is one thing you learn.  When you arrive at the station - check the subway map you carry everywhere, see what the terminal station is for the line you want.  That is how you tell which line to get on.  For instance - are you going in the Ginza-Asakusa direction or the Ginza-Shibuya direction?  You'll also get to know the colors - even after a year I remember - Ginza is gold and Hanzomon is purple.  Just follow the colors.  All stations have easy to make out sign and maps.  Each station also has more than one exit/entrance.  Make a note of what entrance/exit you use - THIS IS IMPORTANT.  Some stations have 12-15 exits.

Don't be afraid to ask for help.  While most of the subway workers don't speak English, most of the passengers do - especially the young (<40) people.  They are usually very pleased to help.

z NEIGHBORHOODS
(MORE DETAILS TO COME)
OmoteSando:  If I only had one day to spend in Tokyo - it would be on this street.  One of the few streets lined with trees.  It is also lined with small trendy shops and cafe's.  Sunday afternoons the street is closed most of the day to traffic.  At the end of OmoteSando it Harajuku, a plaza famous for the "show" teenagers put on on Sundays.  The best souvenir shopping is at the Oriental Bazaar.  No doubt, that is the place - best prices best selection of quality merchandise.
Ueno
Shibuya
Ginza:  Sundays the street is closed to traffic.  And it is full of people.  This is the shopping mecca for Tokyo.  If you like department stores - this is Nirvana.  I didn't think I would like it, but I found myself making a point of visiting once a trip.  Especially after I found the Itoya store (I have this thing for stationary stores).
Rappongi:  You like the nightlife, here's your place.  It comes alive (especially during the warm weather) after 8:00 p.m.  This is the home of the Hard Rock,
Shinjuku
Ikebukuro
z KYOTO
(MORE DETAILS TO COME)
Getting there.
The train station.
What to see.
z RETURNING HOME:
When you leave you will need about Y1,000 for a taxi, Y2,900 for the bus, and about Y2,100 for the "Passenger Service Facilities Charge" (=airport tax).   I use TCAT (a fancy bus terminal in Tokyo)  to leave Tokyo, because you can check into the airline there and not worry about the airport hassle.  You can also buy your Airport Tax (very important - the lines at the airport can be very long), go through passport check and buy any last minute souvenirs. 

Take a taxi from your hotel to TCAT approximately 3 hours before your flight.  Do not arrive too early.  The airlines will not check your baggage at the airline counter more than (about) 2 1/2 hours before your flight due to security considerations.  The Airline counters are on the first floor.  After you finish at the airline counter, go upstairs, buy your bus ticket and Airport Tax.  At the bus lounge you can go through Passport Check.  This will allow you to go to the “Blue Sticker” line at the airport - saving you time.

Now just sit back and relax.  You're on your way home.

Visitors since Nov. 17, 1998