A while ago, I was interested in reloading. For one thing, it saves me money, which can be put to more guns and other shooting accessories. And another thing, it's fun. Following certain guidelines, you can make different loads using different bullet heads and different powders. Many people, myself not included, hand load to make custom ammunition for their match weapons. I try not to get so scientific when it comes to my handloading. I just want more ammo to shoot, and handloading is an excellent economical alternative to constantly buying new factory ammo. I have found that much of my hand loaded ammunition has been more accurate than the ammo I get at the store. Handloading allows you to be involved in the entire process, and thus get more accurate results if you have strict personal tolerances. I took an NRA-certified reloading class at Cubeta's Field and Stream shop in Middlefield, Connecticut. It was an all day class, and you learn many interesting things, as it is a hands-on class. The instructor was very helpful in answering any questions the class had. I definitely recommend taking a similar class if you are interested in starting to load your own.
Handloading is not for you if you cannot accurately measure things or follow written directions. IT CAN BE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS IF YOU DO NOT DO IT CORRECTLY! You can easily blow up your gun or injure or KILL yourself or bystanders with your sloppy loads. You must follow all instructions accurately. I am, in no way, responsible for your messed up loads if you even bother to listen to any of my advise.
I handload:
Many people say, "Forrest, what do you use for bullet heads in your different rounds?" There are many different types of bullet heads for many different types of firearms and shooting applications. For varmint and general northeast hunting situations, I prefer the Nosler Ballistic Tip bullet. These range in size from the .224 on up. The NBT has many features, such as a polycarbonate tip, controlled expansion. and a heavy base jacket for a solid mushroom base. Using these bullets against a full 2-liter soda bottle will leave a 2-inch slice in the front, and tear the bottle in half vertically in the rear. On most occasions, the NBT bullets will also cause the cap or the bottom of the bottle to be blown off. And this is just using them in a .223 round. The .308 versions will pretty much destroy the bottle, and cause more devastation to the target than with the .223 NBT load. Although I didn't have a chance to hunt with them last fall, I made a few people some 150 grain Nosler Ballistic Tip 30-06. One fellow did indeed drop a 6 point buck with one! I was extremely happy with this. Next year, I will definitely do more hunting with my loads, as i encourage you to do once you start handloading. For my .45 loads, I like to go with the traditional "hardballer" ammo, which is the 230 grain FMJ. This round can knock someone flat on their ass on the first shot. Kind of explains why it was the choice for the US Armed Forces for 80 years. For my .357 Magnum loads, I load 158 and 125 grain hollow points. Just as a sidebar, you do not want to use your own handloads for your own personal defense. If you should ever go to court over a shooting, you will be torn apart by the shark-like prosecutors for use of "ultra-deadly-cop-killer-hand-loaded ammunition". Just go out and spend your money on a true self defense round like the Federal Hydra-Shok. They make an excellent load.
Enough talk about bullets for right now. Let's step into what makes them scoot, the powder. For my .223 and .308 rifle loads, I prefer Hodgdon H335 and H322 powders. It was originally a military powder, which has made its way to the civilian market. I also use BLC-2 for my .308 loads, although it can tend to be a little temperature sensitive. For my pistol loads, I use Hodgdon HS-6, although I may soon experiment in using Hodgdon Clays powder. This powder can be used for slow-moving loads, such as my .45 and all the way up to the sizzling .357 Magnum. I also use Hodgdon Benchmark for my bench rest handload powder. Maybe I have a preference for Hodgdon powder, eh? Try some today! They also put out a yearly manual that is really cheap compared to their competitors, and contains lots of load data.
And as for primers, the little things that light off the powder, I like the CCI brand of primers. I have never had any misfires using CCI primers. They come in a regular brand, a match variety and a military primer for .223 and 30 caliber loads. I have never used the match kind, but imagine they apply a better brand of primer into the entire bullet. I believe the military primers are harder than the regular ones.
The brass cartridge case is the container for all the components of a well-made round. For your basic reload, always use brass cases. I was told, in the class I took, not to use anything but brass. Yes, there is nickel plate and aluminum brass out there, but it is not good for the basic recreational loader to use. The nickel plate brass is extremely brittle through due to the nickeling process. I find that Lake City NATO brass works best for my .223 loads. The Lake City is actually loaded to 5.56MM loads. These loads are initially loaded to hotter standards than regular .223. It is also important to note that 5.56mm loads should not be used in a firearms chambered for .223. The cartridge doesn't vary, but the 5.56mm is loaded hotter and may compromise a .223 barrel with it's higher pressures.
What do I finish all these rounds with. Well, I have 2 setups. I started out with a Lee hand press and dies. That is all well and good. Some people say Lee makes crappy equipment, but it hasn't failed me yet. I recently got a steal of a deal on a brand new Dillon RL550B progressive press, along with a set of new .45 ACP dies. I got it for $150, but you would normally pay about 350 for this setup, but it is worth the money well spent. I highly suggest the Dillon setup. Even a schnook like me can set it up and get it spittin' out rounds in about and hour and a half. Dillon says you can get approximately 500-600 rounds an hour out of that bad boy, but however fast you go, you will be making ammo at a great rate. I still use the Lee handpress to size and deprime, then use Lee equipment to size the cases.
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