Gotham's Village |
Arrival in Megopolis It had been a few years since my last trip to the City That Never Sleeps and I was anxious to see the new and improved Gotham, made clean and neat under the leadership of the Guliani Regime. To some a blessed man...to others IL DUCE in a combover. I swore not to prejudge and see for myself whether New York was better or worse off. I made plans in my surprisingly comfortable bus seat as we rambled on toward the city. I had certain places I wanted to check out and formed a loose itinerary as I held my breath against overpowering waves of ennui wafting from the ultra hip, two cell phone wielding gent in the seat in front of me. I was going to stay with my friend Karen who lives in the heart of Greenwich Village. She had agreed to play hostess and tour guide to me on my fact finding mission. The sky was low overcast with fat gray clouds and the air was wet and chilled as the bus cruised down through Harlem and 8th Avenue to the Port Authority Terminal. The tops of the massive skyscrapers were hidden on this unusually cold April friday. This did not bode well for my hopes of many high level city photos. I'd have to shoot from the ground on this trip. That was fine by me as New York is one of those cities as impressive from the bottom up as it is from the top down. And I don't mind milling in the gutter. I stepped off the bus into a mass of brown peoples and more languages than Babel knew. All nationalities swirled around me chattering on in incomprehesible syllables. I felt like an intrepid white explorer strolling a bazzar on some dark continent. This illusion was quickly shattered by a security guard screeching obscenities at someone. This was the New York I remembered. |
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After a short subway ride I met Karen at W. 4th street and we walked to her apartment in the Village. It was freezing out, a miserable afternoon, so we decided to stay at her place to sip a few beers before heading out into the night. Greenwich Village is a strange area of Manhattan. It is both ritzy and poor, hip and gauche, cool and classless, gay and straight, black and white, artsy and utilitarian. All of these factions seem to easily coexist in its narrow and angled streets that are so unlike the rest of the island. It is one of those places that you find in most large cities....the Place Where It All Happens. The Village has a funky vibe...musical....it remains rebellious and subversive in spite of the proliferation of transplanted midwestern yuppies and the advent of the cell phone and Cosmo magazine. If you listen closely enough...past the booming base of passing car stereos and honking taxis...you can still hear the echoes of Dylan, Kerouac, Krupa, Ginsberg and the sarcastic rantings of Tuli Kupferberg. |
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