I arrived in Rarotonga, Cook Islands on January 19, 1998. I didn't really know for sure where I was supposed to go, as my supervising doctor had not sent me any information regarding accomodation. I got myself to the hospital about half an hour later, and was shown to my temporary place of residence- the ex-morgue of the hospital. Fortunately I had some wonderful ex-morgue-mates to keep me company. Katrin, Marc, Gary, and Claudia- if you are reading this- thanks for being there! Of course, there were others too, who didn't particularly impress me. Cockroaches that lurked in the bathroom and the kitchen, mozzies that buzzed and stung, and roosters with non-functional pineal glands that crowed in the middle of the night- them, I had a dislike for.
Now don't get me wrong- we had the best of time, as most afternoons and most nights were filled with exciting activities. Like hitch-hiking our ways to everywhere. Swimming and snorkelling in the lagoon. Playing "500" at least 500 times. Going to watch movies at cinemas that had intermissions. Showing our faces at the local restaurant/bar/disco's. Attending, though not participating in, the mesmerising Island Nights. And of course, sit through a photo session with a newspaper representative so that the five of us could be introduced to the people of the country!
Oh, yes.... we did do some hospital work. After all, it was a medical elective, didn't I say? I was attached to the medical ward with a bona-fide doctor and two other student doctors. Patients? Well, on average we had 3 inpatients. Ward rounds usually lasted for less than half an hour. Outpatients? Oh, there were too many students there already. But, yes, I assure you- this was a medical elective.
After spending two weeks in Raro, Claudia and I flew to one of the outer islands- AITUTAKI. We fell in love with this island at first sight.
Aituaki is 45 minutes flight time away from Rarotonga. This place is so beautiful! Just look at the pictures of Aitutaki.
The Aitutakians were really friendly. Where-ever you looked, people were smiling and greeting each other. I was privileged to be a "temporary" member of their community.
Whilst in Rarotonga I had to make my own meals, that was not the case in Aitutaki, as locals kept on bringing me food! Mangoes, pawpaws, bananas, coconuts, starfruit, guava, pineapples...taro, arrowroot, sweet potatoes...fresh fish (caught in the morning), land crabs...YUMMY! Oh, I forgot to mention corned beef- the locals love it there!
Huh? Oh, you mean you actually want to know about the hospital? Well, the hospital is really a community effort headed by the two dedicated Burmese doctors there: Dr. Aung and Dr. May. The Aitutakians raised lots of money for the hospital through pledges and telethons. The hospital also receives support from charity organisations, as well as aid from the Ministry of Outer Islands and from New Zealand. Aitutaki Hospital is really what you would call a rural hospital. Virtually all diagnoses are made on clinical features alone. There aren't even machines to do FBE's (blood tests) ! Medication is very limited. It is not uncommon for the hospital to run out of basic antibiotics or antihypertensive drugs. So... if you are planning to go to any of the outer islands- bring medication for yourself and for the hospitals! You can try writing to general practitioners in your area or to drug companies... The people of Cook Islands will really appreciate it! Marc the German student brought a luggage full of captopril or fluid tablets and was instantly elevated to "saint" status!
Hospital work in Aitutaki was fulfilling. Claudia and I actually had the opportunity to run the wards virtually on our own. Of course, help was always available should we require it. After a morning ward round, we would park ourselves in the outpatients clinic where we had consultations with whoever that trusted us enough. Most of the people regarded us as doctors anyway. Consultations often began with the patients asking us whether we were from Japan or not. You see, Aitutaki was an American base in World War II. And given that this island is in the middle of nowhere and contact with Asians in recent times remains minimal, it is a logical assumption that every Asian on the island is Japanese!
I must tell you about the Tutaka I joined. This is the quarterly Health Inspection Day. It was quite an experience. I expected to carefully inspect every corner of every house. However, most of the time was spent on the motor scooter, zipping in and out of people's gardens, picking and eating fruit off trees, and social chit chatting. And this was followed by two lunches from two families! I gained weight.
Remember the pictures of "motus" and tropical fish from PICTURES OF AITUTAKI ? I went on two cruises. I don't think I would ever find another lagoon as tranquil and spectacular as this one. Won't try to describe it. I think you should just go and find out for yourselves. By the way, if you do go, make sure you put 4 layers of sunscreen on every hour! I did that and still got tanned.
Island nights on Aitutaki are wonderful. The dance groups perform because they enjoy it. Not for money, not for fame, not for the tourists. I was fortunate to have a friend who was a lead dancer and trainer. Consequently- GOOD SEATS! DANCING LESSONS! PLAITING COCONUT LEAVES (my work is now part of a hut on motu Motorauku)! MAKING EI's or flower necklaces and crowns!
I could go on, and on, and on. But I will stop here. Go to Aitutaki if you can, I can assure you will love every minute you spend there. The scenery, the people: ONE IN A BILLION.
